DIRECTED BY DUSAN RELJIN
MUSIC BY STEPHEN O’MALLEY
STYLING BY BILL MULLEN
“The initial inspiration for this Collection was a vivid image of a group of hard men on a grueling quest that I just couldn’t shake after finishing Cormac McCarthy’s novel, Blood Meridian. Mr. McCarthy paints this picture: ‘They wandered the borderland for weeks…. Spectral horsemen, pale with dust, anonymous…. Like beings provoked out of rock….’ “I wanted to capture their strength of purpose and character despite the harsh world in which they find themselves,” said designer Alexandre Plokhov about his S/S 2014 collection.
Thus, the SILHOUETTE of SS14 is masculine, angular and body conscious. Shoulders are often left bare, legs are covered by slim-line trousers with an elongated rise. An over-dyed mesh shemagh inspired by a tribal head covering breaks the clean, sharp outline with an unexpectedly soft drape.
The COLOR STORY is that of spartan monochrome. Almost every look is a head-to-toe study in one color – coal black, bleached white, gun barrel grey. Crimson red pops in occasionally to provide a shot of adrenaline.
The choice of FABRIC for SS14 is dictated by rigid functionality requirements and its suitability for finishing treatments.
The fabrics chosen to meet those functionality requirements include over-dyed cotton batiste shirting, fine grain matte-finish lambskin and cotton jacquard suiting, among others.
In terms of finishing treatments, the majority of textiles were subjected to a variety of techniques. For example, cotton poplin was coated with resin, enzyme washed and then tumbled with rubber pellets. The result achieved is a leather-like effect. Another process was used on cotton twill to attain the look of a garment coated in wax. A third method was “cold dyeing,” which is characterized by an uneven application of the color grey.
One of the noteworthy additions to the Collection’s arsenal of CONSTRUCTION TECHNIQUES is patchwork. Different types of cotton fabric — canvas, poplin and mesh — are applied to the jean leg and then over dyed. This combines disparate textures into one rugged whole.
The PRINTS are significant in part because we have not done any in several seasons. However, the work that Peter Saville did for the cover of Joy Division’s Love Will Tear Us Apart served as a catalyst this season. We started with color photos of churchyard statuary, re-worked them in black and white and then added a patina of age and distortion.
The ACCESSORIES — leather sleeves, strapped hoods, waist holsters, wrist wraps, and hip belts – serve as the connective tissue running through the Collection. They are intended to underscore its sprit of strength and purpose.
The FOOTWEAR includes a Jodhpur, a Work Boot and a Derby. All are tough and durable, designed with the liberal use of hobnails. Their colors include our habitual black and grey, punctuated by a few pairs done in crimson red. The shoe last is based on a combat boot updated with a leather-covered sole. Materials used are washed cowhide, split crosta, and over-dyed canvas.