Rubin Singer is a second generation Russian expatriate, whose rich ancestral heritage in tailoring Soviet Politburo has landed him a career in fashion. But it’s Singer’s talent that brought him clients such as Beyoncé, Shakira, Fergie, Glenn Close, and many others from the pop-culture Olympus.
Having studied at the cult fashion design school–Central St. Martins–and then returning to the U.S., where his family had moved in the 1980’s, Singer started merging into the U.S. fashion market by working for Oscar de la Renta and Bill Blass. Rubin Singer launched his eponymous label in 2007, a few months before the outbreak of the financial storm that would engulf many fashion brands on its path.
Russians have a deep historical experience of endurance, and Singer is no exception. Sporadic as they might be, his collections, despite all the odds, continue to surface to our delight: bright, simple, and beautiful, like the first spring flowers after a dark, drawn-out winter. With a financial crisis behind us, Singer is, once again, back at the helm of a designer’s ship, surrounded this season by deep space sirens.
Rubin Singer Resort 2012 collection takes root beyond our tangible planet, namely an electromagnetic wave known as gamma-ray, complete with deep galaxy prints in neon colors. The highlight is a printed chiffon corset gown, with python and lizard that is an assemblage of all the elements that are aptly scattered among the rest of the collection: original prints, colors from the deep ends of the universe, both cold and hot, exotic skins, and Singer’s signature angular cuts. There was a chartreuse satin organza gown with exaggerated draping, a transparent grey chiffon asymmetrical gown, a white matte jersey draped dress, and a baby pink leather dress with python trim. Singer envisioned a resort of the year 3,000, where a cruise ship becomes a spaceship.
In his resort collection, Singer combines two seemingly incongruous things: avant-garde and unpretentiousness, which is a necessary accompaniment to any holiday. It’s the infinite elegance that brings together the two elements, the kind that excludes fragility or over-simplicity; instead, it is powerful and bold. Cruise vacations demand looks that exude beauty and power, and Singer’s executive directrice Lauren Estigarribia, spotted during the presentation in one of his creations, is a walking example.
The collection is bright, but not ostentatious, yet at times, we felt that with its dramatic departures between the variously-themed pieces, lacked integrity. Random is the word most often used by scientists to describe gamma-rays; today, Singer simply added sexy and feminine to its definition.
Ksenia Avdulova for DEPESHA.