Blossomed & Defiant Yasya Minochkina S/S 2017

Yasya Minochkina practices a rarefied form of political resistance: urgent beauty. A Ukrainian designer defiantly maintains her entrepreneurial presence in Moscow and stands by her stoically flowery aesthetics.

MOSCOW, RUSSIA - OCTOBER 14: A model walks the runway at the YASIA MINOCHKINA fashion show during day two of Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Russia SS17 at Manege on October 14, 2016 in Moscow, Russia. (Photo by Oleg Nikishin/Getty Images)
MOSCOW, RUSSIA – OCTOBER 14: A model walks the runway at the YASIA MINOCHKINA fashion show during day two of Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Russia SS17 at Manege on October 14, 2016 in Moscow, Russia. (Photo by Oleg Nikishin/Getty Images)

The spring-summer collection presented during Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Russia touts Provence (France) as inspiration. There are plenty of field blossoms, light textiles and intricate lacework. It is titled “Fairytale” and that’s what will make it sell to a Russian audience, starved for continental happy endings. However, for the more discerning eye, the alumna of London’s Central St. Martins and Royal Academy in Antwerp offers a much more nuanced vision to contemplate than exquisite lilies of the valley, poppies and ferns patchwork.

MOSCOW, RUSSIA - OCTOBER 14: A model walks the runway at the YASIA MINOCHKINA fashion show during day two of Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Russia SS17 at Manege on October 14, 2016 in Moscow, Russia. (Photo by Oleg Nikishin/Getty Images)
MOSCOW, RUSSIA – OCTOBER 14: A model walks the runway at the YASIA MINOCHKINA fashion show during day two of Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Russia SS17 at Manege on October 14, 2016 in Moscow, Russia. (Photo by Oleg Nikishin/Getty Images)

The 1970s silhouettes and cuts pay homage to iconic architectural gems scattered along the northern Mediterranean coast from Pierre Cardin’s Cannes estate Palais Bulles by architect Antti Lovag to Ricardo Bofill’s famed La Muralla Roja outside Alicante in Spain. As with these retro-futuristic buildings, not every element translates seamlessly into zeitgeist. The looks with voluminous sleeves and taffeta collar didn’t enhance the storyline. In general, whenever Minochkina strays from the bright and airy path, her work hits stylistic turbulence. Nevertheless, the collection overall marks another strong season for the designer.

Alexey Timbul exclusively for DEPESHA

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