Katya Leonovich Spring/Summer 2012

Katya Leonovich’s second showing in New York is far from sophomoric. Inspired by American football, designer presented a touchdown collection at Lincoln Center. She stays true to her chosen creative ethos of “Beautiful Garbage”. Hardworking denim is fringe-cut and reassembled into suits of illusory armor standing in winning contrast to fragile chiffon and silk dresses which are beautifully tangled and draped. Abstract prints in a well balanced palette of blues, purples and reds are in fact renderings of paintings, also exhibited at the Box venue, which freeze-frame violent collision moments from the game. Other collection highlights include leather jackets dye-morphing into denim, high-heel open toe buckled sandals with earth-brown, sky-blue and dry-blood red straps as well as a short origami coat in urban beige which seemed slightly out of context albeit interesting. Male models with long hair and whipped helmet dos on women revealed the designer’s attention to detail in presentation and culturally astute sense of humor. Leonovich combines Jeremy Scott’s obsession with pop culture recycling and Japanese fascination with garment deconstruction. The result is surprisingly wearable. Press and buyer attention to the past winner of the Mittelmodal Prize, the Smirnoff International Competition, Supima Competition for Emerging Designers and other accolades continues to gather momentum. Alexey Timbul  

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