MESS IS MORE: Saint Tokyo Spring/Summer 2017

Last season I referred to designer Yury Pitenin of Saint Tokyo as the Sputnik Sweetheart of Moscow fashion scene equating presentation of his collection to following a Haruki Murakami subplot. Apropos: things got spectacularly weirder since.

MOSCOW, RUSSIA - OCTOBER 14: A model walks the runway at the Saint-Tokyo fashion show during day two of Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Russia SS17 at Manege on October 14, 2016 in Moscow, Russia. (Photo by Oleg Nikishin/Getty Images)
MOSCOW, RUSSIA – OCTOBER 14: A model walks the runway at the Saint-Tokyo fashion show during day two of Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Russia SS17 at Manege on October 14, 2016 in Moscow, Russia. (Photo by Oleg Nikishin/Getty Images)

The tectonic pressure of Eastern and Western influences on the conflicted Russian psyche was in full effect for spring-summer 2017 at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Russia. Everything appeared contrarian: embroidered rock guitar patches clashed with domestic aprons, the tiger stripe prints roared against the Bauhaus color blocking, the Lucha Libre masks battled Catholic veils for facetime, the unhindered reign of asymmetry extended to the glitter of paillettes in menswear.

MOSCOW, RUSSIA - OCTOBER 14: A model walks the runway at the Saint-Tokyo fashion show during day two of Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Russia SS17 at Manege on October 14, 2016 in Moscow, Russia. (Photo by Oleg Nikishin/Getty Images)
MOSCOW, RUSSIA – OCTOBER 14: A model walks the runway at the Saint-Tokyo fashion show during day two of Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Russia SS17 at Manege on October 14, 2016 in Moscow, Russia. (Photo by Oleg Nikishin/Getty Images)

It all felt mostly strained, but whenever something worked, it was cathartic and redemptive. The tailored hoodie with peonies and brand’s requisite silver stars is streetstyle at its best.

MOSCOW, RUSSIA - OCTOBER 14: A model walks the runway at the Saint-Tokyo fashion show during day two of Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Russia SS17 at Manege on October 14, 2016 in Moscow, Russia. (Photo by Oleg Nikishin/Getty Images)
MOSCOW, RUSSIA – OCTOBER 14: A model walks the runway at the Saint-Tokyo fashion show during day two of Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Russia SS17 at Manege on October 14, 2016 in Moscow, Russia. (Photo by Oleg Nikishin/Getty Images)

The Little Black Dress with zippers and ribbons pushing ‘n pulling the perforated fabric created a brutally vulnerable impression. However, it were the trench coats that became an instant social media hit… but were they reimagined, deconstructed, violated?! If Saint Tokyo is a cross-cultural caldron, the creative chain reaction therein proves volatile and fascinating.

Alexey Timbul

 

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