From the Prussian cavalry parades to the trenches of the World Wars to today’s hottest runways, the overcoat reigns supreme in the brutal menswear battle for style. Once turned by an eponymous Nikolai Gogol short story into a ubiquitous cultural symbol of maladroit submission, it is finally enjoying a long overdue renaissance with a decisive contemporary twist.
The garment’s rich heritage allows imagination some complex maneuvering. While Balenciaga and Lanvin upgrade the strict military silhouette, Prada and Yohji Yamamoto push tailoring limits of classic cuts into the futurist realm.
Damir Doma, Billy Reid and Paul Smith experiment with the traditional outerwear fabrics and minimalist prints. Dries Van Noten, Givenchy and Raf Simons infuse the overcoat’s street style appeal with brightest art scene flare.
This fall-winter season you may be anything you want except Mr. Anonymous.