Haute Couture Week is a bit like the Ultimate Fighting Championship: no rules, no fouls as long as the contender delivers a convincing performance. Go hard or go home. Alexis Mabille based his winter 2012/13 offering “Reflets de Femme” on an assortment of precious stones.
Connecting femme mystique to jewels is as grand a creative gesture as it is timeworn. With his trademark bow-tie prints and a high tolerance for cuteness, Mabille ventured into a treacherous stylistic territory, expectations-wary and cliché-prone. Swarovski crystals, sequins by the ton, goldthread embroidery on satin, velvet, chiffon and other usual suspects complete with trompe l'oeil nudity and bejeweled ponytails.
This one goes down as an honorable loss. For all the craftsmanship (600 buttons?!) and evident operational adjective pool of majestic, dazzling, and so on… the collection appeared merely saccharine. However, the upside side of this bright exhibition could be an increase in interest from the emergent luxury markets such as Russia and China where all that glitters continues to pass for fashion gold.