Trussardi Fall/Winter 12-13

This season Trussardi attempts a high wire act above the 1970s style wasteland. “Proceed with irony” caution the signs and designer Umit Benan heeds the call in his sophomore collection for the brand. Suede is the name of the game. All the other decade staples are on display as well: turtlenecks and kerchiefs, high waists with flared bottoms and wide collars. V-shaped leather inlays on vests are a nice touch. Rust and deep blue are the colors of choice. Partly in homage to the race car drivers and flight attendants of the high speed jet set era. Limited denim, burgundy velvet and faux-staches round off the usual suspects. Key gestures come in oversized: tinted sunglasses, weekender bags, Champaign bottles and smiles. The show’s backdrop vintage racetrack audience cannot be blamed for gazing enthusiastically elsewhere. While the collection is no faux pas, it is not particularly exciting. However, as Russia remains brand’s number one market it is unlikely to cool the Russians love affair with Trussardi. Alexey Timbul

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